An ongoing A-Z directory of common sewing terms, definitions and terminology.
A
ARMSCYE: pattern making term for an armhole.
B
BACK TACK: secures the beginning and end of a seam. Sew 3-4 stitches, then reverse the sewing machine sewing over the same stitches.
BAG OUT: is a term used to describe the method of enclosing raw edges. It is achieved quite simply by putting right sides of fabric and facing together, stitching and turning it out to the other way, so the raw edges are enclosed inside. Neckline and armholes are often bagged out with a facing to give a cleanly finished edge. Or a jacket that is fully lined will also be bagged out, with all seam allowances hidden inside the lining.
BIAS / TRUE BIAS: The bias grain runs diagonally to the selvedge at a 45° angle, giving fabrics more stretch and drape.
BIAS / BIAS BINDING: Bias binding is a strip of fabric used to finish a raw edge. Bias binding must be cut on the bias grainline, which is at a 45° angle to the selvedge so that it will drape and follow the shape of the garment. Just follow the grainline on your pattern. Ready made binding can be bought and used rather than making your own. See our Bias Binding Tutorial.
BLIND HEM: a hand stitch used to finish a hem so that stitching is not seen on the right side of the garment.
BLOCK: a basic pattern used as a basis by pattern cutters to draft patterns. A block (or a sloper in the US) is usually made of card, has no design features, seam allowances and minimal ease. It is usual to have a basic set of blocks – a bodice block, a skirt block, a jacket block, trouser block etc.
BLOCK FUSE: an industry method of stabilising selected garment pieces using fusible interfacing. Iron on fusible interfacing to a piece of fabric large enough to cut all your facings before you cut them out. It’s more accurate, less fiddly and no shrinkage. See our Block & Spot Fuse Tutorial.
BUST POINT / BP / BUST APEX – the most prominent point of your boob – usually the nipple (but not always!).
C
CB: centre back
CF: centre front
CLIPPING/NOTCHING A SEAM: Used to reduce fabric thickness and allows the seam allowance to lie flat on a curved edge, such as a neckline or collar. Clip a CONVEX seam by cutting slits into the seam allowance so it can spread and lay flat. Notch a concave seam by trimming ‘V’ shaped wedges from the seam allowance. With either method DO NOT CUT THROUGH the stitch line.
CLOSE SEAM: an industry term simply meaning to stitch a seam together e.g. Close the side seam.
CUTTING DIAGRAMS: also known as lay plans. Follow these to show how to lay your fabric and your pattern pieces. Garments can be cut in either in one way or two way direction depending on your fabric. Pay attention to the direction of prints, nap (the pile) of cloth and grainline.
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS: marked on each pattern piece to show how many pieces to cut and in which fabric (self/contrast/lining/interfacing etc.)
CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD: place your pattern piece with the marked edge on the fold of the fabric.
CUT 1 PAIR SELF: so you will need to cut 1 pair. In this case cut 1 pair of sleeves to get a LEFT sleeve and a RIGHT sleeve, rather than just cutting two sleeves and them NOT pairing: two left sleeves are not much good.
CUT 1 SELF: self-explanatory … you only need to cut 1, e.g. 1 waistband.
CUT 1 RSU SELF: Lay fabric open in a single layer with the RIGHT SIDE FACING UP and cut with the pattern pieces RSU, so the printed side is facing you.
CUT 2 SELF: you need to cut 2, doesn’t matter if they don’t pair, although it’s preferable to cut in pairs for accuracy, and worth considering if you have a patterned fabric that would just look better cut as a pair.
CROSS GRAIN: The cross grain of the fabric runs across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge and has slightly more ‘give’ than the straight grain
D
DOUBLE TURN or DOUBLE FOLD: an edge is folded over twice so the raw edge is completely enclosed before topstitching to finish.
E
EASE: Ease is the difference between body and pattern measurements; patterns include ease so you can get the garment on! When we talk of ‘design ease’ this is fullness added for aesthetic purposes, whereas wearing ease is allows for movement and comfort. Negative ease is used on knit garments and refers to pattern measurements that are smaller than body measurements as the fabric will stretch to fit the body..
EDGESTITCH: means to topstitch very close (around 2mm) to the edge of a neck, pocket, collar etc.
F
FACING: sewn on the inside of a garment, often at the neck and armholes, to finish the raw edges of a garment
FOLDED LAY: when cutting your garment pay attention to the cutting diagrams. If a FOLDED LAY is indicated, lay fabric with Right Sides Together and ensure selvedges run parallel with each other and are positioned as cutting diagrams. Fabric can also be folded as a PART OPEN LAY so only a section of fabric is on the double. (Also see open lay)
FOOTSTITCH: is a machine topstitch. Line up the foot of your sewing machine with the edge of your garment. The foot stitching will sit about 6mm from the finished edge.
G
GATHERS: a technique to reduce fabric fullness into a smaller area using a running stitch to create soft pleats. See our Gathering Tutorial.
GRADE (pattern): mathematically sizing up and down a pattern, making it smaller or larger.
GRADE (SEAMS) is a process to reduce bulk by trimming seam allowances to different widths so they are tiered and useful for heavier or bulky fabrics. The widest SA should be the one that sits closest to the RS of the garment. (See also trim).
GRAINLINE: marked on each pattern piece as a straight line with an arrow at each end, must run parallel to the selvedge of fabric when cutting out your garment.
GORE: a vertical panel, usually in a skirt. A 4 gore skirt has 4 panels, 6 gore has 6 panels etc.
H
HONG KONG SEAMS: a technique when raw edges of a seam are finished with binding. See our Hong Kong Finish Tutorial
I
INTERFACING/FUSE: Interfacing is used to add structure, stability, shape and to prevent stretching of the fabric. There are many different types and weights, with a choice of iron-on (fusible) or sew-in interfacings. Choose one suitable for your fabric, testing on a scrap of fabric first if necessary. Iron on interfacing is known as fusible in the fashion industry; therefore you FUSE your facings.
INTERLINING: a layer added between the main fabric and a lining, often for extra warmth but can be used to add extra body or stability to the main fabric.
IN SEAM: The inside leg seam of a trouser or shorts
L
LHS(AW): left-hand side as worn. A standard industry term to make sure everyone is talking about the same side of a garment. Imagine you are wearing the garment, we are talking about YOUR left side.
M
MARKER DOTS: ALSO CALLED DRILL HOLES: circles marked on pattern to indicate dart and pocket positions. Select the correct marker dots for your chosen version/size where appropriate. Mark your garment by pushing a pin through the circle and transfer to your garment with either tailor tacks, chalk or fabric marker pen. Stitch accurately TO these dots.
N
NAP: is the term for the pile of a cloth, e.g. Velvet or corduroy. It is important the nap runs in the same direction when cutting out your garment or the fabric will shade and appear different colours when worn.
NEATEN: to prevent the raw edges of a seam or hem from fraying they need to be stitched. An overlocker (Serger) is a specialised machine that does just that; if you don’t have one use a machined zigzag stitch close to the edge of seam allowance. You can neaten a seam allowance either open or together.
NEATEN OPEN: after stitching a seam, neaten the seam allowances separately and then press them open so they lay flat.
NEATEN TOGETHER: after stitching a seam, treat the seam allowance as one and neaten them together. Press the seam allowance to one side.
NOTCHES: ALSO CALLED NIPS OR BALANCE MARKS: used for accurate joining of pieces. Single notches for the front, double notches for the back. Can also be used to show how much seam allowance to take. Snip them with your scissors so there is a small nip in the seam allowance only.
O
ONE DIRECTIONAL PRINT or ONE WAY PRINT: a fabric with a printed or woven design that has an obvious up and down to the pattern. Think of a fabric with trees, cats or smiling faces that will look weird if they are upside down on a garment.
ONE WAY / TWO WAY: to cut your garment out ONE WAY lay pattern pieces with hems facing in the same direction. Used for one-directional prints ensuring any motifs/design on the fabric will all face the same way on the finished garment and prevents shading for fabrics such as cord and velvet that have a nap (pile), or satins that have a sheen. A TWO WAY lay has the hems of pattern pieces facing in opposite directions, this can often (but not always) save fabric. Used for plain fabrics and prints that look the same if you turn them in either direction.
OPEN LAY: when an open lay is indicated in cutting diagrams, cut fabric in a single layer with the right side facing upwards. REMEMBER TO CUT A PAIR – chalk the outline of one pattern piece, flip pattern piece over before cutting again. For any pattern pieces to be cut on a fold: use the centre fold line as your grainline and chalk the outline of one side of the pattern, flip the pattern over and line up at the fold line to chalk the other half. Alternatively, trace the pattern onto paper folded at the centre line and create a full pattern piece.
OVERLOCKER (Serger in the US): Sewing machine trims and neatens raw edges.
P
PATTERN DRILL: a pattern making tool specifically used to punch holes to mark darts etc.
PIVOT: a technique where a change of direction is needed when sewing a seam. Stitch along the pocket up to the corner, keeping your machine needle IN the fabric, lift the machine foot and turn your garment in the new direction you want to stitch in, lower your foot again and continue to sew.
R
RAW EDGE: the unfinished edge of the fabric
RELAXED (elastic): refers to cutting or measuring elastic or stretch fabrics without stretching or pulling them.
RS: (right side): right side of fabric/garment.
RSU: (right side up): right side of fabric/garment is facing you.
RST: (right sides together): place right sides of the fabric/garment facing each other ready to stitch
RHS(AW): right hand side as worn. A standard industry term to make sure everyone is talking about the same side of a garment. Imagine you are wearing the garment, we are talking about YOUR right side.
S
SA or S/A: seam allowance. Always take the correct seam allowance and sew them accurately to ensure your garment fits together properly.
SEAM LINE / STITCH LINE: the position of your stitching on your garment.
SELF: Always refers to the main fabric of your garment.
SELVEDGE/ SELVAGE (US): the manufactured self-finished edge of fabric
SS or S/S: side seam
STITCH IN THE DITCH: also known as ‘sink stitch’: Is a technique where it is necessary to stitch along a seam (in the ditch), usually to secure a waistband, facing or collar, without the need for visible topstitching. The stitch is done from the outside of the garment through all layers in the groove of a seam, the idea being that the stitch line will then be virtually invisible as it sits within the ‘ditch’ of the seam line. See our Stitch in the Ditch Tutorial.
STRAIGHT GRAIN: The grain of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvedge along the length of the fabric.
SPOT FUSE: a method of stabilising a specific area of a garment using interfacing. See our Block & Spot Fuse Tutorial.
T
TACKING: (also called basting) a temporary stitch done by hand to hold fabric pieces in position before final stitching. Tacking stitches are always removed from the final garment.
TOILE: pronounced TWAL (called a muslin in the US) is a test garment in a cheap but similar fabric, to check the fit, length and any alterations of your pattern before before cutting into your lovely fabric. Toiles must be stitched accurately but it is not necessary to add all details such as pockets and collars or to finish seams. Another option is a wearable toile, when you are confident of a reasonable fit. In this case you make your garment properly but use a ‘non-precious’ fabric and are prepared to make adjustments to future garments. See our TOILE GUIDE.
TRIM: seam allowances at seam junctions to reduce extra fabric bulk and trim corners by snipping across at an angle. Take care to avoid cutting into stitchline. (See also grade seams)
U
UNDERSTITCH: helps a seam lie flat and prevents facings and seams rolling from the inside up and out to show on the right side of a garment. It is a functional stitch and not meant to be seen on the right side of a garment. To understitch, press seam allowance towards facing and stitch on the facing close to the seam line through all seam allowances. See our Understitch Tutorial.
W
WARP and WEFT: are the threads of woven fabrics. Warp threads run lengthwise (and are usually the strongest) and Weft threads run crosswise across the width of the cloth.
WS: (wrong side): means wrong side of fabric/garment.
WSU: (wrong side up): means the wrong side of fabric/garment is facing you.
