Posted on

WIP: The Wendy Artisan Smock

The Wendy Artisan Smock by Maven Patterns

The Wendy Artisan Smock by Maven PatternsI’m so excited that my 2nd PDF sewing pattern is almost ready to release… just a few more tweaks to the Maker Instructions and she’ll be good to go!

The Wendy Artisan Smock is a really easy to wear top with a bound neckline and 3/4 length sleeves. She’s very versatile and comes with two neck opening options as well as tips on how to make her unique to you. I’m sure you are going to enjoy making and wearing your “Wendy”, I’ve already worn one in linen to death and I’m going to be making myself another in a soft cotton lawn to wear as a beach cover-up!

Keep an eye out for more Pattern Launch News…you never know, there might be a new release offer!

Posted on 5 Comments

How to make patch pockets perfectly – every time!

How to make a pocket former.

One of the tricks I learnt after first leaving college (when I was still just a lowly Design Room assistant) was how to make patch pockets perfectly EVERY time – even when they have curved bottoms! I worked with some great sample machinists, who showed me this little trick. Of course, they let me do it wrong a few times before revealing the easiest way in the world.

If you have downloaded The Maria Apron PDF pattern, or the Wendy Smock Pattern  you will already have seen the pattern piece labelled POCKET FORMER with the instruction to cut in card only – this is the same shape as your patch pocket pattern piece but WITHOUT THE SEAM ALLOWANCE and ladies that is the trick – just press your pocket AROUND a piece of card cut to the correct shape!

If you are using a pattern from another designer and don’t have a pocket former pattern piece – fear not! Just trace off your patch pocket pattern piece (or print an extra – oh, the joys of PDF patterns) and cut off ALL the seam allowances to follow along, but do remember to keep the original pocket pattern.

A MRS MAVEN TOP TIP: This is the same method that I used to ‘card’ my design patterns ready to send off to the factories for mass production. So feel free to card the whole pattern if it’s one you use a lot, it’ll last forever!! 

If you are looking for a little help to make and stitch your pockets on The Maria Apron or The Wendy Smock, see our patch pocket tutorial here.

To make a pocket former template in card you will need:

  • One patch pocket FORMER pattern piece (or a pattern WITHOUT seam allowances)
  • A piece of card bigger than the pattern piece, a cereal box is good.
  • Stapler ( and a stapler extractor is useful)
  • Ruler, paper scissors and pencil
Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Take your POCKET FORMER PATTERN PIECE and fold in half. Take your piece of card and fold in half scoring the fold flat – I use the handle of my scissors.

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Place together, make sure the folded edges of both are aligning or your card template will be the wrong size later! Staple to hold in place.

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns
Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Use the ruler and trace around the outside edge, taking care that you make a right angle at that centre fold line or you’ll get an odd pointy shape in the centre when you cut out the template.Cut out carefully. Because you are cutting it out while folded you know both sides are going to be symmetrical.

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Un-staple and remember to write which pattern it belongs to!

So now what do you do with it?

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Lay your card pocket former template on your pocket and press the seam allowance all the way around. You’ll get a smooth matching curve on EVERY pocket you make.

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Oh, Look they match…how delightful!! Now all you need to do is stitch them on!

Need a little help attaching your pocket, maybe bagging out the corner or with the reinforcement stitch? Take a look at our Patch pocket Tutorial.

Happy Sewing!

Mrs M x

Posted on 3 Comments

The Maria Wrap Apron – PDF Sewing Pattern

Maven Patterns The Maria Wrap Apron web3

The Maria Wrap Apron – PDF Sewing Pattern by Maven Patterns

Maven Patterns The Maria Wrap Apron

At last…an action shot of The Maria Wrap Apron in her natural surroundings.

She was named after my very lovely and creative friend Maria, who is a textile artist – you can see her work here. The apron was created following a conversation with Maria and another friend Miss Kitty about garments that are missing from our lives, a Maker’s apron was needed for creating and for messy print work in the Design Studio. That conversation grew and evolved and now, as a result, I’m naming all of my patterns after the very inspiring ladies I’ve been lucky to meet along my journey,  but I’ll tell you more about them another day.

Maven Patterns The Maria Wrap Apron

This is the full back pinafore dress version (version B), with a tie fastening on the side. You’ll need to wear something under her – perhaps leggings, I’m quite keen on wearing her with my jeans. She looks great with a skinny t-shirt underneath – the styling makes her quite low on the sides so that is more of a necessity than a suggestion!

So, just a little recap …The Maria wrap Apron by Maven Patterns. Perfect for a day in the studio, as a dress, she is great for a day of (fabric) shopping, perfect as a practical apron for one’s domestic duties. And, honestly, there really isn’t a better apron to wear while staring wistfully at the kitchen wall…

Posted on 3 Comments

The How to Understitch Tutorial

Understitching Tutorial

I thought I’d do a little tutorial on UNDERSTITCHING, I’m sure most people know all about, but it’s something I love to do, so it will be appearing quite a bit in the instructions of Maven Patterns.

“But why Mrs M?” I hear you ask, “why such love of understitching?”

Well for a start, I feel a little sorry for it, understitching is an often neglected little process because when you’re rushing to finish a garment for yourself in between tea time and the next domestic disaster, it’s an easy thing to skip and do you know why I don’t skip it …because I’m lazy! This secretive, functional little stitch is the easiest way to make your facings, bindings and under collars (or under straps if you are making the Maria Wrap Apron) sit to the inside where they should be, without them rolling to the front.  Once you get the hang of it you’ll understitch everywhere!

How to Understitch

UNDERSTITCH TUTORIAL MAVEN PATTERNS

1. First, sew your seam. Make sure you take the right seam allowance, MAVEN PATTERNS will only have a 6mm seam allowance for bagging out facings and collars, if you have a bigger seam allowance you may need to trim it down a bit if you are stitching on a curved edge. Press all the seam allowance towards the facing.

UNDERSTITCH TUTORIAL MAVEN PATTERNS

2. With the right side of the garment up, edgestitch ON THE FACING through ALL the layers, take care not to stretch the garment as you stitch. If you are stitching on an under collar or into a shoulder, just stitch as far as you can with your machine and then stop.

UNDERSTITCH TUTORIAL MAVEN PATTERNS

3.  This is what the reverse side looks like, all the seam allowances are held flat to the facing with that edgestitch.

UNDERSTITCH TUTORIAL MAVEN PATTERNS

4. Now press it so the facing lays flat on the inside of the garment, it will naturally want to roll into place.

UNDERSTITCH TUTORIAL MAVEN PATTERNS

5. On the right side of the garment..you get a nice sharp edge and a flat facing that stays put!

There you see, so easy!