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The Rochester – a new pattern!

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS FEATURED IMAGE

We have a new pattern release to share with all of you lovely sewing ladies… MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

I’m so pleased to put this style out, I’ve loved working on this new pattern so much!

The Rochester has been designed with simple, understated styling in mind. She’s an easy to wear style with a relaxed fit and a slight A-line shape, but fitted at the shoulders for a flattering look. She has a deep centre back pleat, curved hem and side splits with stitched facing and elbow length sleeves.

You have the option to make a top (approx. mid hip length) and a knee length dress. The neckline is elasticated and gathered, so NO ZIP needed – you’re welcome! The top has a small frilled edge on the neckline and the dress has a clean edge but as the pattern is exactly the same and the difference is in the construction they are totally interchangeable – even as you are making them!

We’ve set the sewing skill level as intermediate, the tricky bit is stitching the hem (see the tutorial here) but if you have a little experience and like a challenge, do join in the fun!

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS 05

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

 

DESIGN FEATURES:

  • SEWING SKILL LEVEL: intermediate
  • Version A: The Top (mid hip length approx)
  • Version B: The Dress with tie belt  (knee length approx)
  • Elasticated and gathered front neckline
  • Elbow length sleeves
  • Curved hem and side split with feature topstitching
  • Centre back pleat
  • In-seam side pockets (dress only)
  • NO ZIP!
  • Easy to shorten or lengthen, with guides on your pattern
  • Unlined

PATTERN FEATURES:

  • LAYERS FEATURE: select and only print the size(s) you want
  • MULTI SIZE PATTERN: UK SIZES 8-18
  • SEE PHOTOS FOR SIZE CHART & FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
  • Illustrated guide (ENGLISH ONLY) to printing your pattern and sewing your tunic
  • Fully supported with PHOTO TUTORIALS
  • Includes seam allowances.
  • Can be printed on either A4 or US letter paper, using ADOBE ACROBAT READER
  • A0 copyshop file (2 sheets)

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

This lightweight linen has worked really well for the top, choose a woven fabric that will be happy to accommodate that gathered neckline…linens, chambrays, lawn or viscose. The dress is made in the most wonderful crepe but it wasn’t happy with the frill – hence the 2nd neck option.

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

This hem detail is one of my most favourite things – there is a template included in the pattern to give you a topstitch guide line to make life easier! I’ve also added ‘length/shorten your pattern here’ guidelines on the pattern for The Rochester so you don’t have to worry about the curves and the facing if you need to make any length adjustments. The dress is approximately knee length (Eve is 5’4″ as a guide).MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

Oh and pockets…always need pockets in a dress. Looks good without the tie belt too!

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

I hope you all love our new pattern, The Rochester, as much as we do xxx

You can get 20% off the usual price until midnight (GMT) on Sunday (21/5/17)

no code needed, just head straight to Etsy!

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER

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Curved Hem Tutorial – The Rochester Sewing Pattern

THE CURVED HEM TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

The Rochester Sewing Pattern_MAVEN PATTERNS

The Curved Hem Tutorial | The Rochester

The Rochester sewing pattern has a lovely curved hem detail with side splits and a topstitched facing. It’s one of my favourite things I’ve designed. But, because of the shape of the curve, you can’t just whip around the facing in one go, the facing needs to be stitched to the hem in stages. Also, you need to do the hem and facing step BEFORE you close the Centre Back seam or the back pleat won’t be a happy bunny. It’s not as tricky as it looks or sounds, just follow the Curved Hem Tutorial and take it step by step!

Side note: If you are not in charge of doing a tutorial you’re going to want to use matching thread and transfer your pattern marking with a water soluble fabric pen or chalk – not a fluorescent pink pen.

METHOD | The Curved Hem Tutorial

MAVEN_PATTERNS_CURVED_HEM_TUTORIAL-1

  1. With the right sides of fabric together (RST) close the side seams of the body panels and the hem facing. Stitch from the underarm to the DOT.

2. Make sure to stitch TO THE DOT, not past the dot. Yep, that’s the one I marked in fluorescent pink just for you.

MAVEN_PATTERNS_CURVED_HEM_TUTORIAL-1

3. Overlock (or neaten with your usual method) the body side seams and stop just past the dot, where the seam allowance (S/A) changes. Press the side seams OPEN.

Don’t overlock the facing side seams, they will be enclosed so it’s not necessary, but do overlock the outside edge. Take extra care on the curved bit – it can be a smidge tricky if you go too fast!

TIP: I just had a thought, you could bind the outside edge of that facing. It would look delightful!

MAVEN_PATTERNS_CURVED_HEM_TUTORIAL

4. Place RST and pin the facing to the body, line up at the side seams and notches.

MAVEN_PATTERNS_CURVED_HEM_TUTORIAL

5. Push all of the S/A out of the way….

MAVEN_PATTERNS_CURVED_HEM_TUTORIAL

7. Take a 6mm S/A. Start stitching from the CENTRE BACK towards the side seam, STOP at the marker dot.

curved hem tutorial MAVEN PATTERNS8. Now this side is a bit more fiddly. Again push all the S/A out of the way. It is easier to stitch UP to the dot, rather than away from the dot. Start stitching about 2.5cm (1″) below the dot and stitch towards it.

STOP at the dot, leave the machine needle in your garment, lift the machine foot and PIVOT your garment around a full 180°.

curved hem tutorial MAVEN PATTERNS

9. Drop your foot and stitch back in the right direction ON TOP of your stitchline. Continue around to the front hem and repeat at the other split/side seam.

10. When the facing is all attached, press the stitchline.

TIP! If you find you have got a teeny weeny hole at the junction of your seams DO NOT WORRY ABOUT IT! Do check from the right side, but I bet when everything is in its right place you won’t notice. This one didn’t show at all from the right side once finished.

11. Understitch the facing, stopping below the apex of the split. Press again.

Tack down the outside edge of the facing to hold in place, line up the side seams.MAVEN_PATTERNS_CURVED_HEM_TUTORIAL

12. Grab your hem template pattern pieces. To make a template of anything take the original pattern piece trace on to card/heavy paper and cut away all S/A. Templates are a great way to ensure consistency for topstitching or pressing patch pockets.13. You’ll need to flip the template over to mark one side of your garment. Line up the edge of the template with the hem of garment, and the arrow on the template with top of split. Use a fabric marker pen and draw in a guide line to show you where to top stitch. The template is for the curved areas of your hem, use a ruler / tape measure to fill the gap in between.the arrow on template with top of split, and

14. And then just follow your guide for some jolly nice topstitching! Remove your tacking thread, give it a press and marvel at what a wondrous job you’ve done.

Now go finish the rest of it!

 

 

 

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Sneak Peek!

THE ROCHESTER SNEAK PEEK

The Rochester sewing pattern sneak peek | MAVEN PATTERNSThe sun has popped out this morning so I was able to take a quick photo of the next pattern!

She’s called The Rochester.

It seemed a fitting name as I went to college in Rochester, Kent and studied design and pattern cutting, and recently returned for the first time in about 30 years -while wearing one of my test samples as a wearer trial!

I love this hem detail, and it’s just the right length to wear with your jeans! There is also a dress version with a tie belt. I’ve been wearing them both constantly while I’ve been working on this pattern.

And not going to show you today, but a fab neckline too – I’m such a tease 😉

I’ll announce the release date as soon as I have one, just a little finalising on the instruction booklet to go!