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The Simone Set | attaching the straps

The one place that needs a little attention when making the Simone Camisole is the straps – a little attention to detail here can help to make your garment look really professional.

We’ve done this photo tutorial to give you an extra helping hand. So, are you ready to get a lovely finish to those Simone Camisole straps? 

Jolly good! Read on…

  • So at this point in camisole construction process you will have followed the instructions and completed step 5 in your Maker Instruction booklet, so your bodice and facing will be made up but still separate.
  • You will have made and turned through your straps. Rouleaux straps – completed steps 6 & 7 in your Maker Instruction booklet. Wide strap option – completed steps 11 & 12 in your Maker Instruction booklet.
  • Do make sure you give everything a gentle press before continuing!

ABBREVIATIONS | CB: centre back | CF: centre front | WS: wrong side  | RST: right side together | RS: right side | SA: seam allowance


The strap pattern is a little bit longer than you really need. This in part because when the straps get turned through the ends can sometimes be untidy and look a bit ‘chewed’ up, but mostly because we are all unique so you may actually need your straps a little longer. Before cutting off any of the extra length, do a quick fitting so you can find your ideal strap length. 

  • Use the finished strap measurement charts in the instructions booklet (you will find one for each strap option) as a guide to give you a starting point.
  • The charts show the suggested FINISHED strap length WITHOUT seam allowances (SA).
  • NOTE | The double rouleaux strap option – the inner strap (STRAP A) will be placed closest to the centre front and is longer than outer strap (STRAP B).
  • Mark the finished length on your strap, don’t worry about the seam allowance for a moment, with chalk or a fabric marking pen.
  • Don’t cut the straps, keep the extra length so we can adjust if needed.
  • Pin or tack them into place. The straps can just be placed in position on top of the camisole, as in the photo above, making it easy to adjust the length.
  • Make sure the finished strap length marks you made are placed on the stitchline of the camisole, where they will eventually be permanently stitched.
  • See further along in the tutorial if you need help knowing where to position the straps. 
  • Try on your camisole and adjust the length of the straps to suit you.
  • To adjust the strap length pin the excess into a ‘tuck’, or shorten or lengthen by re-pinning at the front.
  • In this example I have pinned a ‘tuck’ that is 2cm deep in total when I measured it, so I will reduce my overall final strap length by 2cm.

In the picture above I have pinned the strap and the seam is showing, so that will be the WRONG SIDE of the strap. It really doesn’t matter at this stage for a fitting, but it is something to be aware of when you are attaching your straps later and you can make sure the seam is out of sight on the underside of the strap.


  • Check you are happy with how high/low your camisole is sitting.
  • Are the straps sitting comfortably on your shoulder without falling off?
  • Is it hanging straight at the side seams?
  • Does the hem look level?
  • You may find, for you, that each strap needs to be a slightly different length. That’s OK, we are all a little asymmetrical.
  • You can move the position of the straps at the back to suit you or to help hide a bra strap.
  • TIP |  Make a note of your ideal strap length and position. Amend your pattern so you are good to go for any future makes.


Hurrah, you now have a finished strap length!  The photos show both the strap options but you’ll obviously be making one or the other.

  • Add the seam allowances. Add 1cm to the front strap and 2cm at the other end for the back of the strap.

  • Cut off the excess strap

TIP | “Why do the straps have a 2cm SA at the back?” I hear you ask. 2 reasons – It’s for extra strength & stability, so the straps don’t pop out after a few months of constant washing and wearing. Trust me when I tell you that is a very annoying repair to do. And I like a back up plan. It’ll give you an extra bit of length in reserve should you decide “Oh, I wish I’d made these straps a little bit longer”. You can always trim the SA a bit more if you want to…but you cannot add it back on!


The camisole has a 6mm SA on the neckline and armhole and back edge and 1cm on the camisole ‘peak’ to attach the front strap. A 6mm SA is standard in industry for any enclosed seam as it turns better and negates the need to clip and trim the seam allowance. I’ve drawn in the SA/stitchlines with black pen for illustrative purposes.

BACK NOTCHES | The actual construction method is the same for both strap options, it’s just the back strap placement that changes. The strap placement is marked clearly on your pattern for each strap option so you can just clip the relevant notch. Should you happen to notch them all by mistake, as I have for this tutorial, don’t worry you can just ignore the ‘wrong’ ones for your strap option. I’ve marked the back notches for the wide strap in orange pen and the rouleaux strap notches in green pen so you can see which ones I’ve used and ignored.


WIDE STRAPS – attach at front |

  • Place the strap to front camisole with RST (right sides together).  
  • Align the top of the strap with the top edge of the camisole. 
  • Staystitch in SA to hold strap in place.
  • Repeat for the other strap.

WIDE STRAPS – attach at back |

  • With RST place the other end of the strap between the 2 notches on the back camisole. 
  • Align finished strap length on the stitchline of the back camisole. The 2cm SA extends beyond the camisole body.
  • Make sure the strap is not twisted before staystitching in the SA of camisole to hold straps in place.
  • Repeat for the other strap.
  • TRY ON! Now is a good time to try on your camisole just to check you are happy with the strap length and position.


DOUBLE ROULEAUX STRAPS – attach at the front |

  • Place the straps to front camisole with RST (right sides together). Make sure the longer of the 2 straps (STRAP A – the red print) is closest to the centre front and the shorter (STRAP B the mustard print) is towards the side seam.
  • Butt the straps right next to each other so there isn’t a gap. (Unless you want a gap of course!)
  • There may be some variance in the thickness of rouleaux straps as different fabrics may give slightly different results, but just centralise your straps and align the top of the straps with the top edge of the camisole. 
  • Staystitch in SA to hold strap in place.
  • Repeat for the other side.         

 DOUBLE ROULEAUX STRAPS – attach at the back |

STRAP A – (the red print)

  • With RST, place the other end of strap A to the back camisole body.
  • Place strap centrally over the notch (notch closest to the CB) and with the finished strap length on the camisole stitchline.
  • The SA extends beyond the camisole body.

STRAP B (the mustard print)

  • With RST, place the other end of strap B to the back camisole body, but place centrally over the notch closest to the side seam
  • Make sure the straps are not twisted before staystitching in the SA of camisole to hold straps in place.
  • Repeat for the other set of straps.
  • TRY ON! Now is a good time to try on your camisole just to check you are happy with the strap length and position.

| ATTACH THE FACING – FOR ALL VERSIONS (but illustrated on the wide strap version) |

  • Turn camisole body so RIGHT SIDE is facing out and turn the facing so WRONG SIDE is facing out.
  • With RST slide the camisole inside the facing. 

  • Align the neckline, armhole and back edges, matching notches and side seams and pin.
  • Make sure that straps are hanging straight down and not caught in the facing edge. The straps will be sitting between the body and the facing.
  • Anchor straps firmly in place by stitching straight across at the ‘peak’ at the notches and through all layers.

On this stitchline, mark the outside edges of the straps with chalk or fabric marker pen, it should be something that won’t leave a permanent mark.

  • Attach the facing to the body at the neckline, armhole and back with a 6mm SA. It’s important that you stitch through the intersect point you marked earlier (at the edge of the strap) to avoid a step on your finished camisole.
  • If necessary, adjust your line of stitching by taking more or less SA. I’ve drawn the original SA in black pen but I’ve adjusted my stitchline to make sure I stitch through the intersect point.
  • Press the stitchline to set the stitches and trim SA to reduce bulk.
  • Turn through to RS and check you are happy with the straps!

So why am I being so pedantic about stitching to those intersect points?

Because I want to show you how to make a garment that you can wear and be proud of.  The straps are one area where a little bit of knowledge and extra care will make all the difference to the finished result. Does this mean that it has to be perfect. No. This isn’t couture. The aim is just for you to be happy with it. So let me show you what we are trying to avoid…

  • Stitching too wide and missing the intersect point = “steps” either side of the strap

  • Stitching to the inside of the intersect points = the strap doesn’t turn through to the right side properly and will reduce in the length slightly because it’s caught at the point where you have stitched over it.


To make the facing seam roll to the inside of the camisole the next step is to understitch.

  • Turn camisole to RS and pull the facing out so it is extended away from body.
  • RSU understitch through the facing and SA layers. (You may find it easier to press the SA towards the facing before understitching, but it can be done without).
  • Stitch as far as you can up to the front strap peak area, you will only be able to go so far because of your sewing machine foot.
  • Turn facing to the inside of the camisole.
  • Carefully press along the edge with the seam rolled very slightly to the inside of the camisole so it is not visible on the RS .
  • And finally STITCH IN THE DITCH of the side seam to attach the facing and body together (see step 19 in your Maker Instruction booklet).

How delightful and well done! You have made a wonderful job of those straps!





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The Simone Set | the waistband

Before we start, this isn’t an actual “how to make an elastic waistband” tutorial, that’s all covered in the Simone Maker instructions, but this is a few extra ideas and options that I thought may be useful. And while I’m writing with the Simone pattern in mind, you can apply these ideas to any elasticated waistband.

Getting an elastic waistband to fit can be a bit of trial and error. All elastics will behave slightly differently and we all have a preference as to how we like our garments to fit. And we have the added joy of elastic shrinking and stretching. 

BUT OH MY, they can be so delightfully comfortable!


My first tip is to check if your elastic is pre-shrunk. If not, pre-wash your elastic (check the wash instructions first but I chuck it in the machine with my fabric, start as I mean to go on as it were) or at the very least give it a jolly good steam with the iron to shrink it as much as possible. Polyester will shrink less than cotton covered elastics, some may not shrink at all, but we might as well not deal with the hassle of shrunk elastic after we’ve finished our garment.


  • Generally finished elastic measurements are around around 2” smaller than your waist measurement 
  • Start with a piece of elastic longer than you need so you can try it on and adjust to fit if necessary.
  • Mark the elastic with your intended finished waist measurement. 
  • Wrap the elastic around in a loop and safety pin together.
  • Try it on, move and dance about a bit.
  • Adjust if you need to and make sure it’s snug and secure (keep in mind that topstitching the elastic can make it stretch a bit).
  • Allow an extra 2.5cm (1”) as an overlap.
  • Chop off the excess elastic.
  • Don’t overthink it, there is no right or wrong measurement, if it’s comfortable and keeps your trousers up – winner!
  • Remember to make a note of your elastic measurement so you have a reference for next time.


The Simone waistband has a drawstring and 2 rows of topstitching through it, but sometimes you just want a quick clean finish. This is a good method if you are not adding a drawstring and prefer not to topstitch through the elastic and is a very effective way to prevent the elastic from twisting during washing and wearing.

  • Once you have completed STEP 42 in the Maker Instructions – you will have inserted the elastic into the waistband and stitched the opening closed.
  • Evenly distribute the gathering and elastic by pulling and stretching the waistband flat a few times. 
  • Pin through all the layers at the Centre Back, Centre Front and at each side seam to hold in place and simply stitch vertically through the waistband at these 4 points.


If you use the quick method above to secure the elastic in the waistband you won’t be able to add a functioning drawstring, but you can add a fake one.

  • Cut your chosen drawstring to a length of around 65cm (26”)* You just need to be able to tie it in a bow and leave some tails hanging, so feel free to adjust the length to suit you and use what’s in your stash. 
  • Fold in half to find the mid-point and stitch on the waistband at the centre front of your trousers.
  • Tie in a bow!
  • *This is a suggested length for an adult. If you are sewing for a child the length should be shorter because dangling ties are a HAZARD. You will need to check and comply with the legislation for your area to get an appropriate length.



Got a narrower elastic in the old stash? Don’t go out and panic buy more elastic, here’s an easy solution that doesn’t involve altering the pattern.

  • Attach the waistband as described in the instructions and stop once you are at the point of inserting the elastic.
  • Stitch a channel for the narrower elastic. Stitch the channel 3mm (⅛”) deeper than your chosen elastic to allow the elastic to fit inside.
  • So if you have 2.5cm (1″) wide elastic stitch at around 2.8cm (1 ⅛”) above the waist seam.
  • Insert the elastic and close the waistband as in the Maker Instructions.
  • The excess at the top of the waistband will become a frill.
  • Easy peasy!


If you don’t fancy a frill, you’ll need to change the depth of your waistband casing pattern to use a different width of elastic. 

Use this formula to calculate your waistband casing depth (the pattern length will stay the same).

METRIC |  Elastic width x2 + 2cm seam allowance + 1cm ease = WAISTBAND CASING PATTERN DEPTH

INCHES | Elastic width x2 + ½” seam allowance + ⅜” ease = WAISTBAND CASING PATTERN DEPTH

EASE | There is 1cm ( ⅜”) ease allowed in the depth of the pattern to make sure (a) you have some wiggle room and can thread your elastic through the casing easily and (b) there is enough width to make sure the waistband will fold over to the inside of the trouser and cover the waist seam so you can ‘Stitch in the Ditch’ to secure during construction.


Any waistband elastic should be secured by stitching through all the layers as this will help stop it from twisting after washing and during wear. If you are using a narrower elastic than the 4cm width recommended, it’s not a problem, but you might have to use a slightly different method than the one in the Maker Instructions.

  1. Top stitch through the elastic as explained in the instructions. A narrower elastic can still have a drawstring, but you may want to make your buttonholes horizontally instead of vertically and adjust the topstitch placement.
  2. Just topstitch one row through the centre of the elastic and leave out the drawstring and buttonholes.
  3. Stitch vertically through CB, CF and side seams (as described above).

I hope you enjoy these extra ideas to make the most out of your Simone Set pattern!

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The Simone Set | sewing a narrow hem

The Simone Set |

One of my favourite details of The Simone Camisole is the lovely gently shaped hem.

A shaped or curved hem doesn’t really like having a big hem allowance, it’ll look twisted and ‘ropey’ so a narrow hem is the best option. They can be tricky to finish neatly if you are working with a delicate or lightweight fabric, which is often the fabric of choice for a camisole. Different fabrics can require different construction methods so it’s always nice to have a little arsenal of alternative methods in your tool box should the need arise.

If you are ever in doubt of the best method to use just do a little test on a scrap of fabric. If you are testing the best way to hem a curve, remember to do your testing on a similar shape.

| Sewing a Narrow Curved Hem |

WS | wrong side of fabric  RS | right side of fabric  SA | seam allowance


  • Press at every step.
  • If you have a ‘bouncy’ fabric that doesn’t hold the press line (like the one I used!) use a few pins to help, but first check they don’t damage your delicate fabrics.
  • If you carefully tack your hem in place along the top edge of the hem allowance, it will give you a guide to follow when you stitch the hem from the RS, ensuring you catch all the allowance.
  • A good final press and steam will shrink any stretching that may have happened on the curved areas.
  • For reference: the fabric I have used for this post is a fine, slippery, (allegedly) silk crepe de chine that was lurking in the stash.

Double Turn Hem | 1cm Hem Allowance

This is my usual method and the one that you will find in The Simone Maker Instructions. The benefits are it’s easy and works for most fabrics. It gives a small, neat hem with all the raw edges enclosed.

  • Machine a row of stitching 5mm from the raw edge all the way around the hem

  • With WS up, press up the raw edge of the hem using the stitch line as a guide.
  • The stitch line should roll to the WS. (I’ve held the hem in place with a pin for the photo).
  • Fold again and press, enclosing the raw edge
  • Stitch the hem, being careful to catch all the hem allowance. (You can see, above, I have partially stitched the hem).

We have a tutorial for the Maria Apron Hem HERE it’s the same principal but there are a few more photos.

Overlock and Turn |

An overlocker (a serger) makes the edge easier to fold neatly, especially if you are double turning the hem. If you don’t have an overlocker you could experiment and see how it looks with your neatening stitch on your usual machine. You can adjust the differential feed of your overlocker on curved hems so the fabric gathers slightly and this will help when you turn up the hem, but I didn’t find it necessary for The Simone pattern in this fabric.

Single turn | The first example is turned once so you can see the overlocking to the WS

  • Overlock the edge of the hem
  • Fold and press the hem the width of the overlocking to WS. Once you’ve done this a few times you may be comfortable to just fold and stitch in one go.
  • Stitch hem

Double turn | This example is turned twice so the overlocking is enclosed, giving a slightly more expensive looking finish.

  • Overlock the edge of the hem.
  • Fold and press the hem the width of the overlocking to WS and stitch.
  • Fold again and stitch on top of your first row, keep folding as you stitch.

  • Again, once you have done this a few times, and are comfortable with the method, it is possible to double fold and stitch in one go.

Traditional Narrow Rolled Hem Method |

This is the usual rolled hem tutorial you’ll often come across. I usually use the first method I listed above because I’m not a huge fan of trimming SA (that’s most likely due to my industry training as it’s not a thing we would have done and I’m a bit lazy if I’m honest), but the benefits of this method is you can make a very narrow hem on trickier lightweight, sheer or slippery fabrics. It would be your go-to method if you ever needed to hem a beautiful floaty circle skirt.

  • 1.5cm Total Hem Allowance
  • Stitch 1cm from raw edge of hem. (yellow stitching)

  • Use the stitch line as guide and press up the raw edge of the hem to the WS, the stitch line will be close but not right on the folded edge.

  • Stitch as close as you can to the folded edge and through all layers and on top of the first row of stitching. Press. (green stitching)
  • Trim away the extra hem allowance as close as you can to the stitch line.

  • Turn the hem again, so all raw edges enclosed and stitch. (blue stitching).
  • Voila! The tiniest tiny, neatest hem!

You can of course use a special rolled hem foot, but I don’t own one so you are on your own if you go down that route!



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Introducing our new pattern – The Simone Set

Hello and welcome!

We are so excited to share our latest pattern with you … The Simone Set!

The Simone Set is a two piece ensemble that will take you from the (home) office, to the school run, a kitchen disco or even for sleeping… just about anywhere really!

The camisole top and the trouser set work perfectly together creating a pulled together, coordinated look with ease and they work equally hard as a stand alone pieces too. Each piece will become a wardrobe staple in their own right as invaluable mix and match separates to wear with your other makes. The Simone Set offers flexibility allowing you to make different size for your top and your bottom.

The delightful camisole top has bust darts, a gently shaped hem and two strap options. I hope you love the double rouleaux straps or the wider strap option (for a little bra strap coverage) as much as we do.

The trousers are slim fitting with front slant pockets and an elasticated waist and a drawstring. They are smart enough that you can wear these with confidence from the bedroom to the boardroom (if those are even separate things anymore), the perfect foundation for your holiday wardrobe (when that’s a thing again) or you could size up for a more relaxed fit and a spot of very glamorous lounging.

Designed for light to mid-weight wovens, you will be able to create many looks with this versatile pattern from Luxe-look Loungewear in a silky fabric such as bamboo silk, viscose, cool and smart in linen or create a co-ord set in a bold matching print for a faux jumpsuit look. Other suitable fabrics could be double gauze, soft flannel, ponte de roma, rayon, crepe de chine, cotton lawn, chambray.

The Simone Set is currently available in PDF only, but we hope to print her soon.

The Simone Set is and Advanced Beginner pattern and is available in UK sizes 8-22 (see listing photos for more detailed info).

As always, we will be donating 20% of the profit from our launch weekend. The charity we have chosen for the Simone Set is The Birmingham Children’s Hospital Charity who do such incredible work for children and families all over the UK.

Happy Sewing from Maven HQ