Tag: pdf sewing patterns

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The Rochester – a new pattern!

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS FEATURED IMAGE

We have a new pattern release to share with all of you lovely sewing ladies… MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

I’m so pleased to put this style out, I’ve loved working on this new pattern so much!

The Rochester has been designed with simple, understated styling in mind. She’s an easy to wear style with a relaxed fit and a slight A-line shape, but fitted at the shoulders for a flattering look. She has a deep centre back pleat, curved hem and side splits with stitched facing and elbow length sleeves.

You have the option to make a top (approx. mid hip length) and a knee length dress. The neckline is elasticated and gathered, so NO ZIP needed – you’re welcome! The top has a small frilled edge on the neckline and the dress has a clean edge but as the pattern is exactly the same and the difference is in the construction they are totally interchangeable – even as you are making them!

We’ve set the sewing skill level as intermediate, the tricky bit is stitching the hem (see the tutorial here) but if you have a little experience and like a challenge, do join in the fun!

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS 05

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

 

DESIGN FEATURES:

  • SEWING SKILL LEVEL: intermediate
  • Version A: The Top (mid hip length approx)
  • Version B: The Dress with tie belt  (knee length approx)
  • Elasticated and gathered front neckline
  • Elbow length sleeves
  • Curved hem and side split with feature topstitching
  • Centre back pleat
  • In-seam side pockets (dress only)
  • NO ZIP!
  • Easy to shorten or lengthen, with guides on your pattern
  • Unlined

PATTERN FEATURES:

  • LAYERS FEATURE: select and only print the size(s) you want
  • MULTI SIZE PATTERN: UK SIZES 8-18
  • SEE PHOTOS FOR SIZE CHART & FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
  • Illustrated guide (ENGLISH ONLY) to printing your pattern and sewing your tunic
  • Fully supported with PHOTO TUTORIALS
  • Includes seam allowances.
  • Can be printed on either A4 or US letter paper, using ADOBE ACROBAT READER
  • A0 copyshop file (2 sheets)

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

This lightweight linen has worked really well for the top, choose a woven fabric that will be happy to accommodate that gathered neckline…linens, chambrays, lawn or viscose. The dress is made in the most wonderful crepe but it wasn’t happy with the frill – hence the 2nd neck option.

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

This hem detail is one of my most favourite things – there is a template included in the pattern to give you a topstitch guide line to make life easier! I’ve also added ‘length/shorten your pattern here’ guidelines on the pattern for The Rochester so you don’t have to worry about the curves and the facing if you need to make any length adjustments. The dress is approximately knee length (Eve is 5’4″ as a guide).MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

Oh and pockets…always need pockets in a dress. Looks good without the tie belt too!

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER_DRESS

I hope you all love our new pattern, The Rochester, as much as we do xxx

You can get 20% off the usual price until midnight (GMT) on Sunday (21/5/17)

no code needed, just head straight to Etsy!

MAVEN PATTERNS_THE ROCHESTER

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Sneak Peek!

THE ROCHESTER SNEAK PEEK

The Rochester sewing pattern sneak peek | MAVEN PATTERNSThe sun has popped out this morning so I was able to take a quick photo of the next pattern!

She’s called The Rochester.

It seemed a fitting name as I went to college in Rochester, Kent and studied design and pattern cutting, and recently returned for the first time in about 30 years -while wearing one of my test samples as a wearer trial!

I love this hem detail, and it’s just the right length to wear with your jeans! There is also a dress version with a tie belt. I’ve been wearing them both constantly while I’ve been working on this pattern.

And not going to show you today, but a fab neckline too – I’m such a tease 😉

I’ll announce the release date as soon as I have one, just a little finalising on the instruction booklet to go!

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PATTERN HACK…How to make an Off the Shoulder Top!

Off The Shoulder Tops…

THEWENDYARTISANSMOCK_OFFSHOULDERTUTORIAL_MAVENPATTERNS-28

 

…they’re everywhere this summer, aren’t they? I’m not one to usually bother with fashion trends. I’m not a big fan of buying or especially making clothes unless it’s something I really love and will wear loads. I do, however, like to get the maximum mileage out of a pattern, fabric and mostly out of my time. I thought about this trend for a while and came to the conclusion the off the shoulder top, or The ‘Bardot’ Top (or as my eldest called it Bar-Dot, worth writing a tutorial just for that!), could actually become a holiday summer basic.

I started with The Wendy Artisan Smock pattern and thought this would be a great little pattern hack to share. It does make the most perfect beach cover-up, just lengthen your pattern to get the leg coverage you are after. It would also make a delightful holiday dress with a little tie belt at the waist too. I’ve made it in an embroidered spot voile. Beautiful fabric – but be warned, it is quite sheer in the white if you are going down the dress route!

And I thought I should probably share it now as in England we’ve had more than 3 days of glorious sunshine this summer, and it’s now 50/50 (yes, I know that’s being optimistic) for the rest of August wether we get any more sunshine.

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

| SUPPLIES |

Wendy Artisan Top Pattern, Tape measure, Scissors, 1 metre (approx) of 2.5cm wide Elastic, Safety Pin

I recommend, as always, making a toile: it’s a test run in calico or a cheap fabric – you don’t want to waste your favourite fabric on a less the perfect top!

  1. Cut out your pattern using VERSION B (with no centre front neck opening) and don’t cut the binding pattern.
  2. NECKBAND: cut one long rectangle 7.5cm wide  x  SMALL: 123cm long / MEDIUM: 128.5 cm long / LARGE: 134cm long. It can be cut along the selvedge or across the fabric width on the straight grain. 

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

Make up your top, following the instructions in the pattern: Attach pockets and sleeves, close side seams.

Cut neckline down by 4cm. Of course you could trim down your pattern pieces before cutting out your garment.

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

Press the neckband in half length wise

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

Join with a 1cm seam allowance to make the neck band into a loop, press the seam open

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

| Attach the band |

Pin neckband to RIGHT SIDE of the body. Depending on your fabric your neckline may ‘grow’ as it’s on the bias grain in places, just ease your garment onto the neckband.

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

Stitch your band to the body with a 1cm seam allowance. Leave a gap of about 5cm to thread your elastic through.

To get your elastic length: wrap elastic around shoulders where you want your top to sit, pulling slightly so it stretches, and mark. It needs to be tight enough to stay up but not so tight it cuts off the circulation and if it’s too tight it will ride up, too loose and it’ll drop down! Everyone’s measurement will vary as it depends on a lot of outside factors how stretchy is your elastic/ how tight are you comfortable with etc?

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

| Thread the elastic |

(This is the same process as the sleeve hem for the Smock) Attach a safety pin to your elastic to help thread it through the neckband channel. Once threaded lay the elastic with the ends flat on top of each other and stitch where you marked it earlier. Try your smock on and see how that elastic feels, now is the time to adjust if you need to. Once you are happy, make sure that elastic is stitched securely, and trim away excess elastic.

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

Then just stitch the gap closed, and neaten the raw seam allowance.

OFF THE SHOULDER TOP TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS

 

Now just enjoy the sun in your off the shoulder top, like the fashionista you are!

 

 

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How to Make a Button Loop Tutorial

A handy little tutorial to show you how to make a handworked button loop…..

| HOW TO MAKE A BUTTON LOOP |

BUTTON LOOP TUTORIAL _MAVEN PATTERNS

| SUPPLIES to make a button loop |

Firstly gather your supplies:

garment (obviously)

button (1.5-1cm in width works well for a back neck opening), scissors, needle, beeswax (optional)

Thread: you have to make a decision here; help is at the end of the tutorial!

  • embroidery floss – great colours but makes a bulkier button loop,
  • ordinary sewing thread, will match your garment, good for garments made from delicate fabrics such as lawn. Run it through some beeswax to help strengthen it first.
  • topstitching thread – my preference, good colour selection and strong.

| METHOD |

BUTTON LOOP TUTORIAL _MAVEN PATTERNSTake a length of thread. I’m using topstitching thread and have threaded my needle with it doubled so I’m making 2 loops with one stitch (because I’m lazy and it’s quicker). I’m working on the WRONG SIDE of the garment and starting my loop back a few millimetres back from the edge. Bring your needle out at the point you want your loop to start.

Put your needle back into the garment where you want your loop to end, and bring it back out at the start point to form your loop.BUTTON LOOP TUTORIAL _MAVEN PATTERNS

Make your loop big enough to go over your button. It can be a little bit trial and error to get the loop the right size – it’s wise to check now that it fits!

| Top tip | use your finger or a pen as a guide for consistency.

Decide how many strands you need in your loop and repeat. I’ve done 8 strands. (There is a little guide at the end) Fasten your thread off securely. BUTTON LOOP TUTORIAL _MAVEN PATTERNSWith a new length of thread, bring your needle out at the base of the loop on the left. Work from the left towards the right and cover the loop with a standard blanket stitch: just put your needle through the button loop and keep your thread BEHIND your needle BUTTON LOOP TUTORIAL _MAVEN PATTERNSand pull the thread firmly. Slide the stitch along the loop so it sits to the left, right at the beginning next to the fabric.BUTTON LOOP TUTORIAL _MAVEN PATTERNS

Repeat, sliding each stitch snugly to the next, until the whole loop is covered with a closely worked blanket stitch. Secure your thread and stitch on your button.

| THREAD OPTIONS |

BUTTON LOOP TUTORIAL _MAVEN PATTERNSThese are a few of your options regarding which thread / how many strands per button loop. There isn’t a right and wrong answer for which one to use – depends on what you’re making and what you have available!

My preference is the first one using topstitching thread / 8 strands. I actually thought it was going to be too bulky and setting back a little to the wrong side of the garment helps hide messy starts and finishes. It made a really nice sturdy loop and I do like a little bit of contrast thread, so matching thread isn’t an issue for me.

The second loop is again using topstitching thread but with only 4 strands for the loop, it’s a little floppy but perfectly serviceable. This one I set right on the folded edge of the cloth.

Number 3 is Embroidery Floss / 3 strands. Lots of choice for colours with embroidery floss but is a little bulkier in appearance. Might be nice on knitwear.(I can’t knit, so I’ve never tried that). You could also split the threads and work with fewer strands rather than the usual 8 that the floss is made of.

Number 4 is the most delicate of the button loops. Made from my usual sewing thread pulled through beeswax to strengthen. With 8 strands for the loop and the blanket stitch worked with a double thread for 2 strand coverage. This one would be lovely to use on a delicate fabric such as a cotton lawn.

I do actually really like the last one because I got to finally use my neon pink sewing thread that I bought for no other reason than the colour!

Happy Sewing! x