Posted on 18 Comments

The Maria Wrap Apron Reversible Tutorial

How to Make a Reversible Maria Apron

I’ve seen some lovely reversible  Maria Wrap Aprons appearing by way of the growing band of happy #mavenmakers. I’m so delighted to see your makes and you’re a very creative bunch!

I’ve had many-a-request for a tutorial of how to make a reversible version. It’s not too complicated, and as with most things there is always more than one way to do it, but this is the method I found the easiest.  Do feel free to share your process…I’m all about an easy make!

The Maria Wrap Apron Reversible Tutorial

Arm yourself with the original instructions – to keep this tutorial shorter you’ll need to refer back to them for the full maker instructions.

Be sure to use the seam allowances as stated in the instructions.

CUTTING OUT: we are making Version A of The Maria Apron in this tutorial.

  • Use the FRONT (pattern piece 1)
  • BACK (pattern piece 2),
  • POCKET (pattern piece 7) 
  • TOP STRAP PATTERN (pattern piece 3)
  • DO NOT cut understraps or facings.

CUT 1 set for body A in fabric choice 1 (I’ve used a striped ticking from Ditto fabrics)

Cut 1 set for body B in fabric choice 2 (ideally equal in weight and density to fabric A, so one fabric doesn’t show through the other when reversed.)

*Please forgive my fabric choice 2…I’m currently working on a ‘use fabric from the stash policy only’ or I end up wasting days looking for the ‘perfect’ cloth. So my reversible apron is less reversible, more lined and without pockets in calico.

FACINGS: do not cut in fabric, ONLY cut 1 set in fusible interfacing (I made mine 2cm narrower than the pattern)

UNDERSTITCHING: in the instructions when it tells you to understitch, DON’T – doesn’t apply to a reversible one.

OVERLOCKING/NEATENING OF SEAMS:  They’ll all be enclosed between the two layers so don’t bother. YAY!

Don’t forget to press as you go, that’s my very TOPPIEST TIP for a professional looking garment.

Test your topstitching tension, it’s going to need to look good on both sides of your garment.

STEP 1: INTERFACING

Maven Patterns: The Maria Wrap Apron reversible tutorial

Fuse the interfacing onto the wrong side of one of your fabrics, doesn’t matter which one, but I’d advise doing a little test first to make sure it doesn’t show through on your fabric (it really showed through on my calico).

Follow the instructions and make up bodies A + B of the Aprons, complete with pockets. Don’t overlock or neaten the seams, they’ll all be enclosed so as I said before, there is no point!

STEP 2: MAKE THE STRAPS

Maven Patterns: The Maria Wrap Apron reversible tutorial

Make up the straps (one A + one B for each strap) and turn through. This is where we deviate from the instructions…don’t understitch the straps. Normally you’d want those seams to sit to the underside of your strap (that’s why there is an understrap pattern, it’s slightly smaller so the seams roll to the underneath) but as we are doing a reversible one it needs to look good from both sides, so our seam is now going to sit exactly on the side, neither to the front OR the back. Practise on your straps – you’ve got to do the same on the armhole in a minute. Topstitch your straps, neatly does it, remember it’s going to show on both sides.

STEP 3: ARMHOLE

Maven Patterns: The Maria Wrap Apron reversible tutorial

Place body A + body B with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER (RST), use a 6mm seam allowance and stitch together at the armholes only. Turn back to the right side, so the seam allowance is enclosed and press.

STEP 4: ATTACH STRAPS 

Follow the instructions and attach the straps to body A. Just check they’re correct before you continue, you’ll thank me if you’ve got it wrong. All good? Great, let’s carry on then…

STEP 5: FRONT NECKLINE

Maven Patterns: The Maria Wrap Apron reversible tutorial

With RST pin and then stitch A + B together. Cut off the bulk in the corners (as described in the instructions), turn back to the right side and press neckline flat.

STEP 6: BACK AND HEM

Maven Patterns: The Maria Wrap Apron reversible tutorial

With RST again, pin the backs together at the top edges (where the straps are placed) and then continue to pin down the back and all around the hem, make sure you line up the side seams.

Here’s the (not-so) secret to bagging out a fully lined/reversible garment, leave an opening to turn everything through – you are literally going to pull the whole apron through it after stitching to turn it to the right side. If you are just lining a garment (rather than making it reversible) I’d suggest leaving an opening on the side seam as it won’t show at all when you are wearing it. But, as this is reversible and has pockets that sit over the side seam, I’ve gone with leaving an opening on the back seam. It’s a personal choice thing…I could have just as easily left an opening at the hem.

Machine stitch A + B together, use the seam allowances stated in the instructions. Don’t forget to leave the opening on one side – mine is about 12cm long. Press your seam.

STEP 7: TRIM & PRESS

Maven Patterns: The Maria Wrap Apron reversible tutorialTrim away the excess seam allowance at the hem and around the curve so it will lie flat when turned through to the right side.

Turn the apron to the right side by pulling it through the opening. Now take your time and press the seam where you have joined A + B together, again you want that seam to sit exactly on the side so it neither favours A or B.

STEP 8: FINISH!

Maven Patterns: The Maria Wrap Apron reversible tutorial

Close the opening with a slip stitch, you shouldn’t be able to see your stitching when you’ve finished. Now you can topstitch around your Apron (all in the instructions). Personally, I left that stage off…

A: because I liked the look of my apron without it and

B: because my machine was in a bad mood, and I hate ropey topstitching so quit while I was ahead.

So that’s it, a fully reversible (or just fully lined) apron!

Off you go then….get stitching!

Posted on

Instagram first for Maven!

#mavenmakers Salt_of_the_North

#mavenmakers Salt_of_the_North

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m so excited to share this with you all…The first Maria Wrap Apron has appeared on Instagram! YAY!!

Maddy posted her apron on her lovely Instagram Salt_of_the North. She has made such a beautiful job of this one. I was very intrigued to see she is going to add some red line embroidery to the front, I can’t wait to see it completed. I just love the idea of everyone personalising their Aprons.

You should go and check out Salt_of_the North, it’s a wonderfully curated collection of images – very inspiring. A big thank you to Maddy for sharing her apron and I hope it’s not too long before her dream of being a shepherdess is fulfilled!

Don’t forget to add your own Maven Makes to Instagram by tagging us @mavenpatterns and with the hashtags #mavenmakers #mavenpatterns

 

 

Posted on 5 Comments

How to make patch pockets perfectly – every time!

How to make a pocket former.

One of the tricks I learnt after first leaving college (when I was still just a lowly Design Room assistant) was how to make patch pockets perfectly EVERY time – even when they have curved bottoms! I worked with some great sample machinists, who showed me this little trick. Of course, they let me do it wrong a few times before revealing the easiest way in the world.

If you have downloaded The Maria Apron PDF pattern, or the Wendy Smock Pattern  you will already have seen the pattern piece labelled POCKET FORMER with the instruction to cut in card only – this is the same shape as your patch pocket pattern piece but WITHOUT THE SEAM ALLOWANCE and ladies that is the trick – just press your pocket AROUND a piece of card cut to the correct shape!

If you are using a pattern from another designer and don’t have a pocket former pattern piece – fear not! Just trace off your patch pocket pattern piece (or print an extra – oh, the joys of PDF patterns) and cut off ALL the seam allowances to follow along, but do remember to keep the original pocket pattern.

A MRS MAVEN TOP TIP: This is the same method that I used to ‘card’ my design patterns ready to send off to the factories for mass production. So feel free to card the whole pattern if it’s one you use a lot, it’ll last forever!! 

If you are looking for a little help to make and stitch your pockets on The Maria Apron or The Wendy Smock, see our patch pocket tutorial here.

To make a pocket former template in card you will need:

  • One patch pocket FORMER pattern piece (or a pattern WITHOUT seam allowances)
  • A piece of card bigger than the pattern piece, a cereal box is good.
  • Stapler ( and a stapler extractor is useful)
  • Ruler, paper scissors and pencil
Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Take your POCKET FORMER PATTERN PIECE and fold in half. Take your piece of card and fold in half scoring the fold flat – I use the handle of my scissors.

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Place together, make sure the folded edges of both are aligning or your card template will be the wrong size later! Staple to hold in place.

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns
Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Use the ruler and trace around the outside edge, taking care that you make a right angle at that centre fold line or you’ll get an odd pointy shape in the centre when you cut out the template.Cut out carefully. Because you are cutting it out while folded you know both sides are going to be symmetrical.

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Un-staple and remember to write which pattern it belongs to!

So now what do you do with it?

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Lay your card pocket former template on your pocket and press the seam allowance all the way around. You’ll get a smooth matching curve on EVERY pocket you make.

Patch Pocket Tutorial - Maven Patterns

Oh, Look they match…how delightful!! Now all you need to do is stitch them on!

Need a little help attaching your pocket, maybe bagging out the corner or with the reinforcement stitch? Take a look at our Patch pocket Tutorial.

Happy Sewing!

Mrs M x

Posted on 3 Comments

The Maria Wrap Apron – PDF Sewing Pattern

Maven Patterns The Maria Wrap Apron web3

The Maria Wrap Apron – PDF Sewing Pattern by Maven Patterns

Maven Patterns The Maria Wrap Apron

At last…an action shot of The Maria Wrap Apron in her natural surroundings.

She was named after my very lovely and creative friend Maria, who is a textile artist – you can see her work here. The apron was created following a conversation with Maria and another friend Miss Kitty about garments that are missing from our lives, a Maker’s apron was needed for creating and for messy print work in the Design Studio. That conversation grew and evolved and now, as a result, I’m naming all of my patterns after the very inspiring ladies I’ve been lucky to meet along my journey,  but I’ll tell you more about them another day.

Maven Patterns The Maria Wrap Apron

This is the full back pinafore dress version (version B), with a tie fastening on the side. You’ll need to wear something under her – perhaps leggings, I’m quite keen on wearing her with my jeans. She looks great with a skinny t-shirt underneath – the styling makes her quite low on the sides so that is more of a necessity than a suggestion!

So, just a little recap …The Maria wrap Apron by Maven Patterns. Perfect for a day in the studio, as a dress, she is great for a day of (fabric) shopping, perfect as a practical apron for one’s domestic duties. And, honestly, there really isn’t a better apron to wear while staring wistfully at the kitchen wall…