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How to Grade Between Two Sizes

How to Grade Between Two Sizes

We are a unique and amazing bunch of individuals, all different shapes and sizes. Even those of us with the same measurements can be different shapes! You’ll understand them, with the best will in the world, it’s not possible to create a pattern that fits everyone straight off. The best course of action is to arm ourselves with enough fitting knowledge and skills to adjust, as necessary, our patterns to create great fitting garments.

So, what is a girl to do when she falls between different sizes on the size chart? This is where you need to know how to grade between two sizes. This method is also known as blending sizes, and it allows you to use the top half of one size and join to the bottom half of another size.

How do you know?

Once you’ve checked your measurements against the body measurement chart, may well find you cross 2 sizes, perhaps your bust is measuring for the size 12 and your hips are measuring for the size 14.

Take a look at the garment measurement chart – a looser fitting garment may give you that extra you’re looking for. I often find, that for me, this is the case for the waist on a less fitted style – no alteration needed!

You made a toile: perhaps your dress is a little too snug on the hips but great on the bust… then this one’s for you.

WARNING: If your toile is pulling because of a fuller tummy or bottom, or because you actually need to do a full bust adjustment this alteration may not do the trick, this is really just to add a bit of extra wiggle room.

How To Grade Between Two Sizes Tutorial_MAVEN PATTERNS-36

Tools:

  • your nested pattern
  • contrast coloured sharp pencil
  • french curve/pattern master (optional)

GRADE BETWEEN SIZES 01_TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-01

If you have a pattern that is layered, use that option to select and print only the sizes you need.

Then all you need to do is draw a line from one size to the next, use a contrasting colour so you can easily see which line to follow later.

In this case I’ve used the bust from the UK size 12 and the hip from the UK size 14.GRADE BETWEEN SIZES TUTORIAL-03

It’s important to make a nice smooth line, remember bodies are rounded, so keep your lines curved rather than joining to each other in a point. A french curve or a Pattern Master is really useful and a good investment for the long term. But, you can also use the pattern as a guide by copying the side seam shape on to a piece of paper, cutting it out and using it as a template between your sizes. It will need pivoting between points, and the line will change but it does give a good starting point.

GRADE BETWEEN SIZES 01_TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-01Of course it works the other way, to allow for smaller hips / larger bust combination too (but sadly not instead of a full bust adjustment).

Good To Know:

  • The Chain Effect: Alter all corresponding pattern pieces so they still fit together and the pattern stays balanced.
  • Front and backs need the SAME treatment.
  • This dress has a side seam pocket, as the side seam shape has changed, the pocket pattern needs to be checked against the side seam to make sure it still fits and adjusted if not.
  • Make sure the correct size sleeve pattern is selected, it should be the same size as your selected bust size, so it still fits into the armscye (Fancy word for armhole. Don’t ever get put off by terminology – that is possibly the first time I’ve ever actually used the word armscye , & I’ve been doing this since I was 16!)

NOW CHECK YOUR PATTERN FITS TOGETHER: nice smooth line? side seams the same length? 

Well done – NOW, YOU NEED TO DO ANOTHER TOILE! 

But, it’ll be worth the effort because you are going to have a beautifully fitted pattern you can use again and again, now that you know how to grade between two sizes!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Lengthen or Shorten a Sewing Pattern Tutorial

How To Adjust the Length on a Sewing Pattern

This is just about the easiest pattern alteration to do!

You’ve probably noticed, many patterns have horizontal length adjustment lines marked on them to show where to alter the length. I don’t do that on all of my patterns, I prefer a cleaner look. It’s so easy to get in a muddle with too many lines everywhere and so simple to mark any length adjustments only if you need them. This straight forward tutorial will show you how simple it is to lengthen or shorten a sewing pattern, to help achieve a great fit.

TOOLS

  • Your pattern (or copy of your pattern if you don’t want to alter your original)
  • ruler
  • pencil
  • tape
  • paper

Things to be aware of

  • If you are unsure of how much length to add/reduce or even if you need to adjust the length, make a toile first. The silhouette and ease in a garment can make a difference to how long it should be.
  • If you are doing lots of alterations to your pattern, do any length adjustments first.
  • Keep the grainline or “place to fold line” IN A STRAIGHT LINE, do not allow them to stagger.
  • The Chain Effect: when altering one pattern piece, also alter the corresponding pattern piece in the same way and remember to check they still fit together after your alteration. It is very annoying to end up with the front skirt longer than your back skirt!
  • A toile is always your friend if you’ve done lots of (any) alterations!

Step 1

HOW TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN A SEWING PATTERN TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-01

Once you’ve made a toile, you’ll know how much and where you need to add or subtract length to your garment. You can just change the bodice length, or a skirt length or the sleeve, or all 3!

Draw an adjustment line horizontally across your pattern at a right angle to the grainline or to the “place to a fold line”

On a bodice: mark the line above the waist line but below a bust dart, and straight through any waist darts.

On a skirt (or skirt portion of a dress) below the hip line, but avoid any pocket details – no point making life complicated!

On a sleeve: half way along the underarm seam, unless it’s a fitted sleeve or has an elbow dart, then divide between two lines. (See “Good to Know” at the end)

Step 2

Lengthen a pattern

HOW TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN A SEWING PATTERN TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-02

Cut along the adjustment lines and separate the pattern piece.

Place a piece of paper behind your pattern and tape the top portion of your pattern to it.

Extend the grain line. Draw a line parallel to the your adjustment line the amount you need to lengthen the pattern by. Tape the lower portion of your pattern to the new line, matching up the grainline. Re-draw the seam lines so that they match up again, these may need to be curved or may be straight depending on your pattern piece. It’s quite usual to need to blend the new lines together, adding a bit to one and taking a bit off the other.

Shorten a pattern

HOW TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN A SEWING PATTERN TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-03

Cut along the adjustment lines.

Place a piece of paper behind your pattern and tape the top portion of your pattern to it. On your pattern, draw a line parallel to the adjustment line the amount the pattern is to be shortened. Overlapping your pattern pieces, tape the lower portion of the pattern to the new line, matching up the grainlines. Re-draw the the seam lines so they match up again, in the same way as lengthening a pattern.

Step 3

Check your pattern pieces still fit together before cutting out your garment. Toile again if you need to!

Good to Know

The Maria Apron: lengthen the straps

HOW TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN A SEWING PATTERN TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-06

This is a great method to use if you need to alter the length of the straps of The Maria Apron too. Be sure to keep the grainline aligned as before, but you can just chop through the strap, spread the pattern the required amount and re-draw the edges with a straight line – all without changing the length of the angled edge that attaches to your apron! You will need to do exactly the same alteration to both the TOP and UNDER straps.

Changing the length by a larger amount

If you are lengthening or shortening a sewing pattern by a larger amount, you can spread the amount between 2 lines

HOW TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN A SEWING PATTERN TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-05

On a bodice, for example, take the amount needed to lengthen and place half above the bust dart, and half below the dart, this will of course lower the bust dart a little, so be sure you want it lower!

On a skirt, especially a maxi skirt style, half could go through the skirt in two places, this will lengthen the skirt and keep the hem circumference the same as the original. Alternatively, use one adjustment line and extra length could be added straight to the bottom of the hem, but the hem circumference will get bigger.

For a fitted sleeve: Spread the amount between two lines one above and one below the elbow/elbow dart.

Now, do I always use this method for changing the length of every pattern?

I’m 5’2″ so it’s always shorten, shorten, shorten.

HOW TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN A SEWING PATTERN TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-04

NOPE, I don’t! If it’s only a little bit, or a boxy shape I’ll just chop it off/add the extra on to the bottom of the pattern. That works just fine too in some cases.

I hope you found this pattern alteration tutorial useful, and now can confidently alter the length of your sewing patterns.

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In-seam pocket Tutorial

I DO LOVE a side seam pocket. They are nicely hidden in the side seam so unobtrusive and don’t disrupt the line of a fantastically printed fabric. And I find it very annoying not having somewhere to shove my hands!

Our signature In-seam (side seam) pockets are a regular feature on Maven Sewing Patterns.  My pockets may look a little unusual to you, but bear with me, I developed the pattern and technique especially to combat a few of the things that annoy me about pocket construction.

IN SEAM POCKET TUTORIAL_MAVEN PATTERNS-07

Problem 1: Overlocking

So, here’s the thing… you may look at the pocket bags on this pattern and think…Mrs M, really what the ???? I’ll admit they may look a little odd at first glance, with the curvy bit added, but I do have a very good reason: I feel this method gives a much better result.

My problem with the usual way of making pockets that sit at the side seam is you can’t overlock around the pocket bag in one easy motion. Generally, you are told to neaten the edge of each pocket bag separately which just isn’t as strong. And end up having to pull the seam ‘straight’ to catch all of it in the awkward little angle created, which is a pain and eventually the overlocking just pulls away in the wash leaving a raw fraying edge exposed. Mmmm…messy.

Side note – I’m going to say overlocking a lot but replace with zig zag stitch or your preferred seam neatening term.

Problem 2: Snipping

And the other problem, with some methods, was sometimes having to snip into the seam allowance to get them to lie flat in the direction you want. It’s a pet hate, I don’t like doing ‘the snipping’ . in fact, I hate snipping and clipping unless I REALLY have too because it makes a weak point on your seam.

Problem 3: Concealed

I wanted the seam off set from the side seam, so it was less visible.

So what I wanted was a pocket bag I could overlock everything easily and together so it is stronger, and NO snipping into the seam.And the pocket bag is set back a little from the side seam so shows less when being worn. And I wanted to press the side seam open. I thought I was really easy-going until I started writing sewing instructions!

The In-Seam pocket Tutorial

Firstly cut out your garment, make sure you cut 2 pairs of pocket bags (so you have 4 bags in total). Transfer the marker dot positions to your garment (chalk, tailor tacks – whatever works for you. I’ve used neon orange pen so it would show in the photos – I don’t recommend it!)  

Spot fuse the strip of fusible interfacing to the pocket mouth on the FRONT body.

A NOTE ON SEAM ALLOWANCES – Images are shown with 1cm side seam allowance + 6mm seam allowance to attach pocket bag. Some patterns have different seam allowances; 1.5cm side seam allowance + 1cm seam allowance to attach pocket bag which will be shown on your pattern. These are shown in brackets below but the technique is the same!

Step 1

MAVEN PATTERNS_IN SEAM POCKET TUTORIAL

Place the pocket bags to the front and back garment, with right sides of the fabric facing each other, and so the notches on the pocket bags line up with the side seam notches and stitch together with a 6mm (1cm) seam allowance. Overlock (or neaten with your usual method) the raw edge of the pocket bag and garment together, starting and finishing about 3cm either side of pocket bag – (shown in green thread).

UPDATE – On the back seam – rather than starting the overlocking just above the pocket bag – start at the top of the seam and overlock the entire seam right down to the hem.  It’ll save you having to go back and overlocking the rest of that seam later. Which means you’ll have 1 less process to do and save at least 30 seconds – you’re welcome!

Step 2

MAVEN PATTERNS_IN SEAM POCKET TUTORIAL

Press the pocket bags AWAY from the garment and understitch on the front pocket bags.

Step 3

IN SEAM POCKET TUTORIAL 4A-04

SIDE SEAM:

Pin with right sides of fabric facing each other, line up the marker dots on the front body with the corresponding one on the back body.

Take a 1cm (1.5cm) seam allowance, start at the underarm and stitch down to the first marker dot, PIVOT * and stitch from the dot across the pocket bag until you are back at a 1cm (1.5cm) seam allowance on the pocket bag. (The stitch line is marked on the pattern piece, so you could transfer the line across with chalk and a ruler if you wanted).

Carry on around the pocket bag, and stitch TO the next marker dot, PIVOT again and continue down to the hem.

It’s a good idea to reinforce each of the corners at the pivot point as in-seam pockets can take quite a lot of stress. Set your machine to a smaller stitch length and just stitch a second machine row DIRECTLY ON TOP of your first row of stitching about 3cm either side of each marker dot.

Don’t forget to put your stitch length back to your normal setting.

*TO PIVOT – Stitch to the marker dot, leave your machine needle IN your garment, lift your machine foot and turn your work in the direction you want to stitch, drop your foot back down and continue to stitch – makes a nice tidy corner.

Step 4

MAVEN PATTERNS_IN SEAM POCKET TUTORIAL

Press the pocket bags towards the front body.

Press the side seams OPEN above and below the pocket bag, as far as you can. Overlock the front side seam first, all the way around the pocket bag – it’s easier because of the curved shape!!!

THIS NEXT STEP IS FROM THE ORIGINAL METHOD – you can skip this step if you are following the updated method and have already neatened the full length of the back seam. On the back side seam: overlock (shown in pink) from the top of the seam down to the pocket bag and overlap the new overlocking (pink thread) over the original overlocking (green thread), so there are no raw edges. Restart the overlocking below the pocket bag, again being sure to overlap as before, so the entire seam is neatened.

Give the pocket a gentle final press.

MAVEN PATTERNS_INSEAM POCKET TUTORIAL 2016

And from the right side…Tis a thing of beauty!

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HOW TO SEW BIAS BINDING

Bias binding is such a useful technique and it’s not difficult to master, like everything a little practise makes perfect. Bias binding is a great way to finish the raw edge of a garment. It is hugely versatile and can be used on necklines, armholes, hems, pretty much anywhere really. You can buy ready made binding from your local haberdashery shop. I like to make my own and use up some of those scraps!

There are really two types of binding for our purposes:

DOUBLE BIAS BINDING

Will show on the right side of the garment. It can be decorative if made in a contrasting fabric.

SINGLE BIAS BINDING

It can be used in lieu of a facing on an armhole or neckline. Apart from a row of topstitching, only be seen on the inside.

In this tutorial I’ll show you how to attach your bias binding tape. If you want to know how to cut, join, press and sew bias binding, go check out my BIG BIAS BINDING TUTORIAL.

How To sew Double Bias Binding

Double bias binding is used when you want to see it on the right side of a garment. It is both decorative and practical. YAY, One of my favourite combo’s!

Maven Patterns Bias binding tutorial 01

Take your prepared binding and pin RIGHT side of binding to the RIGHT side of garment. Align the raw edges together. Machine stitch along the fold.

TIP: if you are binding a thicker fabric or a few layers of fabric, take a smaller seam allowance so you have extra binding where you need it to help accommodate that extra bulkiness.

Maven Patterns Bias binding tutorial 02

Press binding AWAY from the garment.

Maven Patterns Bias binding tutorial 03

Wrap binding over to the raw edge to WRONG side of garment. Position the folded edge of binding so your machine stitching is covered by a few millimetres. Pin to hold. Tack right on the edge of the binding to hold into place. Ensure you catch all the binding on the reverse side and just cover the machine stitch. Keep an even distance away from the binding on the front. Take your time to get this right now, the tack line will be a guide to your topstitching!

Maven Patterns Bias binding tutorial 04

TWO OPTIONS TO FINISH:

OPTION 1: EDGE STITCH ON THE BINDING

Maven Patterns Bias binding tutorial 07
Maven Patterns Bias binding tutorial 06

Top stitch the binding to finish

With the right side of your garment facing you, edge stitch the binding. As long as you stitch to the inside of your tacking stitch, you know you’ve caught the back of the binding!

OPTION 2: If you don’t want your stitching to show on your binding try this method…

Finish your binding by Stitching in the Ditch (also known as sink stitch).

‘Stitch in the Ditch’ is a really useful technique to know, good for finishing waistbands as well as bindings. When stitched in the same colour as your main fabric the stitch line practically disappears as it settles into the seam.

Maven Patterns Bias binding tutorial 11
Maven Patterns Bias binding tutorial 012

Position your machine needle in line with the groove (the ditch) of the seam, you are going to stitch right in that ditch, NEXT to the binding but not on it. And as long as you stitch to the inside of your tacking thread, you know you’ve caught your binding on the back 🙂

Just remove your tacking thread, and you’re done!

And another way to attach binding!

an alternative way to finish a raw edge

There is yet another way to attach bias binding to finish a raw edge!

This way was shared with me by Shelley, one of my lovely testers of the new Maven1832 patterns. Shelley was making the French dart with the bishop sleeve in a slippery fabric and found this was an easier way to attach the binding at the cuff.

It’s pretty similar to the above methods, except you attach to the wrong side of the fabric and flip binding to the right side of the fabric and stitch. This method only works with visible edgestitching but you might find it less fiddly if you are working with a tricky or slippery fabric.

It’s really a personal preference which way you prefer to sew your binding, but it’s always good to have more than one way to stitch something. Different fabrics do sometimes require a different method!

METHOD

Place the right side of binding to the wrong side of fabric and stitch in the fold to attach.

Fold binding over to the Right Side so all the raw edges are enclosed and the stitch line is covered. You can trim the seam allowance down a smidge if the biding doesn’t quite cover the stitch line.

And then, with the Right Side Up facing up, edgestitch the binding in place.

How To Sew Single Bias Binding

Single bias binding is used to finish a raw edge without it showing to the front of your garment, a great choice if you want a fuss free finish without a facing.

This isn’t everybody’s method, but this is the method I was taught by a sample machinist I worked with about 20 years ago, she called it the Cheat Method. I liked the method because it was quick and that binding NEVER frayed no matter how much I washed those garments (baby and kids clothes), must have been the combination of a folded edge and the extra understitching – great for linen fabrics.  I’ve used this many times over the years instead of a having a flappy facing. The only drawback is some fabrics are just too bulky, but just bind anything too thick with a contrasting fabric and make a feature of the inside!

MAVEN PATTERNS SINGLE BINDING TUTORIAL 01

PRESS: Fold your binding in half and press.

Version 2

ATTACH: Line up the raw edges of your binding with the raw edge of your garment, with right sides together.

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Stitch with a 6mm seam allowance to attach.Press binding and seam allowances away from garment. Understitch (machine stitch an edge stitch through all the layers on the binding close to the seam.) The understitching is an optional step, there won’t be a disaster without it, but it does make the binding roll to the wrong side better and I think it makes the binding stronger.

Version 2

Tack along the edge of the binding to hold in place, this will also give you a guide line for your next row of stitching.

MAVEN PATTERNS SINGLE BINDING

Flip your garment over and topstitch with the right side up. If you stitch inside your tacking line so you know that you will catch all the binding!

(You can make narrower binding if you prefer…simple bit of maths… finished width of binding + seam allowance, x 2 = cutting width of binding.)

And that is how to sew bias binding!